Showing posts with label Cologne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cologne. Show all posts

Friday, 11 August 2023

Tonight we are staying at Lulu's



So, today we end the day in the Lulu Guldmedan hotel in Berlin. A little bit of Denmark in the heart of Germany! More about the hotel and why we are here a little later on - first an outline of the day itself 


Early Morning 

I woke at 4am, which was a relief, as while I’d made a good go at Saturday’s 500 photos, I had plenty more to edit, either to focus them in the centre or to edit them so that the wall and crowds didn’t distract from the main focus. I was in some kind of stained-glass heaven, given the content of all that we had seen!


I completed loading all of Saturdays and all of yesterday's photos to Flickr, by the time that Drew awoke, so we showered and dressed and went down for breakfast in the hotel. 



Breakfast at the hotel 

Now that, though yesterday’s walking we know exactly the way to and through the station it makes perfect sense to stay in the hotel until at least 9am before going to get the train at 9.48am. 


The breakfast was really excellent – a vast selection of cold and hot food, setting us up for the day – luckily. 










Train

We caught the 9.48am train on platform 2 for what was supposed to be a 4 hour 15 minutes journey, providing good time to draft a blog post, something I’d not had chance to focus on while sort the pictures. 




We were told that there was a technical problem on the train, which had been running slow, which led to an announcement that didn’t give much comfort:


We are trying to manually remedy the problem but it will cause a further delay 


Truth is that with good wifi and plenty of other things to catch up with, so we are not complaining.



We stop for a longer time in Ahlen (Westf). The driver tells us he has to become a mechanic. It turns out that the solution is to remove one of the carriages and then do further tests! As this would take some time the doors were opened and people could go out onto the platform to get fresh air – we stayed with the air we had and I typed while Drew read his Kindle. 


The train manager then announced 

please feel free to stay on the platform or in the train as we will announce on the platform when the train will begin again. But we have to do a complete restart i.e. They are going to turn it off and then turn it back on again. 

I feel a little like I’ve fallen into an episode of the IT Crowd, where this was a constant refrain.


Still, it worked, so again we can’t complain. 90 minutes later and with one less carriage than we originally had and subsequent moving for some people from that carriage into the others which were already full on this busy Monday trip. We got away. [Co-pilot's note: Which, dear readers was somewhat disappointing as it meant I couldn't continue to sing - we'll never leave Harlen alive]


Our first stop was Hannover, a city I’d previously taught in delivering MSc programmes in Marketing and Procurement to managers from Siemens. I remember a great night here when Octoberfest was on when Heather Skinner, God rest her Soul, and Kelly Page, now living in New York, and I were each teaching different groups of students at various levels of the course and were taken out to the beer festival.


We next went through Wolfsburg, an interesting city, built around the development of the VW Beetle – then called the KdF Wagen was initially called Stadt des KdF Wagens.




To be fair to Deutsche Bahn they came around with free coffee and water and also claim sheets so we can get a 25% refund as part of the Government policy on train delays of more than 1 hour. It is 50% for delays of more than 2 hours, but they managed to get us into Berlin Hauptbahnhof (HBF) i.e. Central Station with five minutes to spare. So, we arrived at 4.10pm rather than the 2.15pm we had expected.  


As I mentioned in an earlier blog post, we will use the BVG app to travel in Berlin. We used the trains wifi as we entered the station to buy our tickets online – a simple process making use of the Google Pay data already on our devices, so not needing to enter a credit card number etc! 


The app does a countdown before the ticket appears and then the ticket shows the time and how long it has to last. In this case 8 euro for 24 hours. 



As ever in a new city there was the problem that Google Maps is not great at knowing what direction you are travelling until you have walked a bit. Not a problem in many cases, but when this huge station with 20+ platforms has exits on each of the four sides, on can know where the buses are on the map, but until you know where you are it can be confusing. Given the crowds we choose an exit and ended up having to walk around a quarter of the station to get to the side we actually wanted. Though as the weather was fine this wasn’t a problem. A large screen shows bus stop numbers, so we looked for our bus – the M85 and found it was at Bus Stop 2 – trial and error, spotting 3 and 4 helped us find 2 and we had an uneventful bus ride to Lulu Guldsmeden Hotel in 12 minutes. The bus stop is immediately opposite the hotel, so we walked to the junction, waited for the
Green Man to come on at the crossing (more of him in a minute) went in and checked in.


Lulu Guldsmeden




Why, I hear you ask, would we choose to stay in a Danish brand hotel in Germany? Well, last October, Drew took part in a half-marathon in Copenhagen, when we began to book hotels all those near the start of the race had been booked – I had been tasked (some might say politely asked) to find a location which had good travel links to the start, so that Drew could get there on the day of the race. I looked at a variety of options and came upon one which was near both the subway and the main railway station. In an area of town which was safe and clean (even Copenhagen has some seedy places, though not as many as other cities. The hotel was called the Axel Guldsmeden and was quirky and enjoyable. So much so that I’d made a note of where they were (5 in Denmark), one in France, one in Iceland, one in Norway, one in Bali and one in Berlin. Hence when we planned the holiday, this was the first hotel we booked, to keep the connection with our previous stays. We were so lucky, not only was it well connected (on a bus route with two buses each which run every 12 minutes in the daytime and even every 30 minutes overnight but also a lovely relaxed environment inside – oh and free sweets!!





We checked in and using the material I’d typed earlier, managed to finish the Brussels blog post by 5.50pm and posted it. 


We began to look at where to go for dinner. It turns out that the area around the hotel have a selection of eating places, Dalmatian (the area not the dog), Filipino, a burger joint and a Vietnamese. We decided we would quite like a Vietnamese, so opted to go there.  


The restaurant was called Cay Tre Quan and had five tables in quite a compact, but friendly place.


We shared three starters together. Lalot chien - Minced meat wrapped in lalot leaves - The crispy leaves wrapped the warm beef very well and the chilli and vinegar sauce brought real Vietnam flavours to the mouth. A reminder to us that it is 17 years since we were in Vietnam, where did the time go!


Nem Chien - Fried spring rolls filled with Nem Chay Vegetables - these were like Chinese Spring Rolls the world over, lightly fried they had no excess fat and lots of lovely vegatables. 



Nem Cuon - Rice paper filled with rice noodles, salad, egg and coriander - Shrimps - As ever these were harder to eat as the rice paper falls apart at every touch, but the noodles and vegetables were delightful.


For mains Drew opted for Pho Xao mit hühnerfleisch - Fried rice noodles with vegetables, bean sprouts, peanuts and roasted onions with chicken. The noodles were soft and the chicken well cooked and generous in portion size. Very tasty. 
I also opted for Pho Xao, but mine was mit ente cross - Crispy duck. I think I got the best deal as the duck was a long breast cut into slices - crisp and delicious. The crispness balancing well with the soft gently flavour of the noodles.

Ampelmann

It was only 8:22pm when we had finished dinner, so we went for a walk and passed a memorial to one of the synagogues of the pre-war period, Synagogue Levetzowstrasse, which was destroyed during the Nazi regime – it was based in this part of the city for centuries.



We walked along the Landwehr Canal and came to the Geroge C. Marshall Bridge, that Marshall of Marshall Plan fame who did so much to restore Western Europe to economic well being after the second world war.



I mentioned earlier the little green (and red) men who allow you to cross the road, well here in Berlin these gentlemen have an additional air of sartorial elegance by wearing a hat. They are called Ampelmann, Drew was taken by their hat, hence the photos, and as you’ll see later this week, in a purchase he makes before we leave Berlin!




We return to Potsdamer Strasse, the street on which Lulu is based and get back to the hotel and to Bed by 9pm!


Thursday, 10 August 2023

Cologne

 


It was Samuel Taylor Coleridge who said:


In Koln, a town of monks and bones, 

And pavement fang'd with murderous stones, 

And rags and hags, and hideous wenches, 

I counted two-and-seventy stenches, 

All well defined, and several stinks!


Well things seem to have changed for the positive since then as we had a stench free visit to this city by the Rhine.


But before we get into details of that city it is time to outline the route we took to get here.


Breakfast

I woke up at 4am, which was a relief as my early morning rising has always been a great help when blogging or editing photos – I can normally get two hours in before Drew wakes up, but in recent years I’ve been waking later – say 6am – and not had time to get so much done.


I was therefore able to complete Friday evenings blog post and get on with loading some of the photos from yesterday on to Flickr.


We had set our alarms for 5.30am, so we could fit breakfast in before the train. Ablutions and packing completed we were outside the breakfast room at 6.25am ready for them to open at 6.30am.


I mentioned yesterday how nice the breakfast is here at the Holiday Inn Express Brussels and I really enjoyed it again. This was my plate (well one of them!):


Locked in a box

We popped back up to the hotel room and left the hotel at 7:05am. The short walk to the tram station meant we were at the station by 7:08am.


To enter the station, you have to walk through a glass door and pay (using Google pay on our phones, the most efficient method in Brussels). This worked very easily for me and I exited from the other side – Drew had more of a challenge. He scanned his phone and nothing happened, he was locked in the box. He scanned his phone again and it said:  Already validated, but still did nothing. Drew pushed the nice large help button and a stream of fast French followed by fast Flemish emerged, none of which enable Drew to understand how to get out of the box!


A few minutes later and a third attempt allowed him to proceed, he had escaped his box. Thankfully only one charge was made against the credit card, even though with checking in and checking out there were five entries on the Google Pay app. 


Excitement over, we arrived at Bruxelles Midi at 7.18am for the 8:25am Trian – confirming our own like for nice early arrivals. We spotted a Starbucks right opposite the platform on which our train was to depart (platform 2) and sat down.  

I went into the Starbucks and the conversation went:


H – Un venti Americano un Venti Latte, S'il vous plaît

Starbucks Employee - Café Noir du Café au lait.

H – Si, Por Favor!!


Apart from him giving me a funny look my reversion to Spanish when in doubt didn’t cause any particular problem.


We drank our coffees sitting outside in the Starbucks area with people walking back and for along the concourse.

I had a sense of deja vue from a famous occasion when someone who had challenging mental health issues picked up a Venti Americano at the Starbucks in Leeds Station, after a very successful HEA event, and poured it over me. Sherianne, who has commented on Facebook in response to earlier blog posts this week, was with me on the occasion. I can laugh at it now, but still kept a firm hand on the coffee receptacle, so as not to have a repeat in Brussels!


Brussels to Cologne – Bruxelles du Koln

The train pulled into the station on time and I got settled into my seat. With great wifi, it meant I could catch up with a blog post from earlier in the trip and this worked well.



We departed on time and made use of the in-seat check-in facility which Deutsche Bahn have. This means you are left alone when the conductor comes through the carriage checking tickets. 



We passed through Brussels Nord and Liege station

Then went on towards the border to Germany and the town of Aachen. For some reason the train was delayed leaving Aachen (technical problems with the train was what I could understand of the tri-lingual (French, Flemish and German) messages. The problems persisted as the train was then re-routed through Rheydt station which is in Mönchengladbach, a name I think I remember from my Dad’s love of soccer! The repairs complete in Rheydt we left the station.


At this point I thought I heard them saying we would arrive in Cologne in 10 minutes – it turns out they said 1 hour and 10 minutes, so after getting up and standing near the door for 30 minutes, I realised (Drew told me) [Co-pilot's note: I told him, dear readers, many, many times. After 43 minutes realisation some how crept in while we were still going at 132 kph!!!] my mistake and returned to our seats [Co-pilot's note: Where we, dear readers, sat for another 23 minutes!!! How we chortled - NOT!]. We arrived in Koln at 11.20am.


Koln

IHG, which are our main hotel choice this holiday, didn’t have a hotel in central Cologne, so I’d locked at the map, seen where the station and cathedral were and picked one that looked reasonable. It was a Tryp hotel by Wyndham. It was only one block from the station to the hotel, which was great as it had started to rain quite heavily. 

We went to the hotel and asked them to store our luggage – we had to complete check in details (a form to complete as this booking was via Booking.Com not direct with the hotel, so they needed a little more information) and bags stored we head back across the station concourse and into the town centre where the Dom (Cathedral) is straight ahead.

Mass is at the Cathedral at midday I arrive at 11.40 and Drew heads off for a stroll. This is a huge church, but once you say you are coming for Mass you are ushered in to the front, I was in the fourth row back.


The congregation was eclectic, around me there were Polish people, Germans, Irish, an English couple and some Hispanics (possibly Brazilian, but I was to polite to ask). 


Mass was delightful as it is the Feast of the Transfiguration, when Jesus’ clothes become dazzlingly white (a gospel I used to hate reading out loud as I couldn’t ever find the end of the word – dazzlingly, dazzalingly, dazzallingaly!! The same problem didn’t seem to happen in German – I sang the hymns and noticed that the sung parts of the Mass in German were to ancient hymn tunes and written in the 16th or 17th century. A reminder that German Catholicism retained their choral singing tradition in their own language alongside the Latin Polyphony and Gregorian chant throughout the Middle Ages and beyond. Something lost in UK Catholicism, and more evident in some traditional Anglican forms of worship.


Lunch

Mass finished at 1pm and I met Drew outside the Cathedral as planned. It was still tipping down with rain, but we walked for a little while until Drew was attracted by the ice creams in a Gelato shop called Gelato 4D. We stopped for a coffee 



and a huge ‘After-Eight’ Ice Cream for Drew 



and a Flammktuchen Elsässer (that is from Alsace) with bacon and onion for me. This was crisp bread cooked to perfection and lightly covered with the bacon and onion - as Drew said, like a pizza without the tomato.



We had read that Cologne was famous for its fountains and next-door to the Gelato shop was one of the most famous – Called the Elves of Cologne (Die Heinzelmännchen von Köln). Though, they resemble British dwarfs more than the image of an elf in my mind.






We walked back towards the Cathedral (Dom) and went in for photos. Threse are a must see on Flickr – so please go there they start here and go on for some time!! 


The highlights are the detailed stained glass



The amazing reliquary of the bones of the Three Kings (note, the bible doesn’t mention the number of kings only the number of gifts, nor does it suggest they are kings, but medieval tradition can be a powerful thing.)



Drew had to do contortions to get the best photos, but he is always willing to sacrifice himself to his art, when encouraged (he might say nagged) by me. [Co-pilot's note: Might, dear readers, AND DO!!!]




St. Andrew’s Dominican Church

Leaving the Dom and the rain eased for a while when we were taking photos of some of the Roman city that was on this site – so much history to explore. 



The rain came down heavily again and we spotted another Church and thought we would have a look there. This was the Dominican church of St. Andrew, as well represented by a number of statues of St. Andrew around the church. The church was founded in the 12th century, through parts of it are much more modern, reflecting one assumes the impact of British bombers on this city.


Again Flickr is the best place to get all the amazing colours of this place, but the highlights include modern stained glass in a style I’d never seen before:



and the crypt with the tomb of St. Albert the Great.



Back to the Hotel

With two churches taken and the rain persisting we decided to walk the short distance back to our hotel, so we could be allocated our room (202) and unpack. The room was clean, but somewhat dated in style. Drew said it put him in mind of Richard Widmark. It is the cheapest room we are staying in this holiday and it has a full size bath!


Dinner

While we don’t always subscribe to the idea of eating local, as this was our first day in Germany (of this trip for me, ever for Drew) we looked for somewhere serving German food and found it in a lovely place called Brauhaus Em Kölsche Boor with a bierkeller kind of feel to it.


WARNING FOR VEGTARIAN-VEGAN FRIENDS - A LOT OF MEAT IS ABOUT TO APPEAR - AVERT YOUR EYES NOW IF IT OFFENDS YOU.


Drew was told, firmly, that the Cola he wanted wasn't a US brand but Afri Cola, Drew didn't complain it was about four times sweeter than UK cola, so he was very, very pleased.


I had a local sparkling water and it was crisp and tasty too


For starters Drew picked something that might have been my choice, if I hadn't planned to have pig for mains. This was called Blutwurst mit Senf, Röggelchen und Butter - Black pudding with mustard, rye bread roll and butter. It has a sweetness to it unlike UK Black Pudding and was also served chilled, which is very different from our way at home, but it was spicy and a tasty event.

I opted for Adappelsrupp Kartoffelsuppe mit Croutons, that is Pototo soup with croutons - a light soup with garlicy crunchy croutons. It was less than I'd normally have for a starter, but I knew what was to come!



Drew felt obliged to choose the Mühlenbratwurst mit hauseigener Sauce vom Koch'schen Malzbier, Rotkohl und Bratkartoffeln as his main, as the Englihs translation on the menu called it: "Big fried sausage with homemade malt beer sauce, red cabbage and fried potatoes" and a Big Sausage appealed to his sense of humour. It quickly became clear it appealed to his sense of taste too - as he really enjoyed it.

I had chosen a delicacy I've not had for some time. In German: Schinkenhämmchen mit Sauerkraut und Kartoffelpüree; in English: Boiled pork knuckle with "Sauerkraut" and mashed potatoes or in the patois of my home region of South Wales - influenced by its large Irish community - Fatty Ham - The character Idris from the Welsh television series Satellite City loved his Fatty Ham. Indeed, Ham and Cabbage, which is after all what Sauerkraut is, is quientesentilly an Irish and South Wallien dish, though the German waiter wasn't quite sure and wanted to check I knew I was getting boiled him, not grilled ham (gammon steak). I was sure and I was very happy.

Just like Idris' on the programme, this fatty ham really jiggled (thanks for the spelling, Janet!)

You can see below, that none of it survived, bar the bones - food heaven in some of the most simple tastes.

An espresso each and it was time to return to the hotel for the night.


We got back at 9pm and went to bed by 10pm. A full, but enjoyable day