Friday 11 August 2023

Tonight we are staying at Lulu's



So, today we end the day in the Lulu Guldmedan hotel in Berlin. A little bit of Denmark in the heart of Germany! More about the hotel and why we are here a little later on - first an outline of the day itself 


Early Morning 

I woke at 4am, which was a relief, as while I’d made a good go at Saturday’s 500 photos, I had plenty more to edit, either to focus them in the centre or to edit them so that the wall and crowds didn’t distract from the main focus. I was in some kind of stained-glass heaven, given the content of all that we had seen!


I completed loading all of Saturdays and all of yesterday's photos to Flickr, by the time that Drew awoke, so we showered and dressed and went down for breakfast in the hotel. 



Breakfast at the hotel 

Now that, though yesterday’s walking we know exactly the way to and through the station it makes perfect sense to stay in the hotel until at least 9am before going to get the train at 9.48am. 


The breakfast was really excellent – a vast selection of cold and hot food, setting us up for the day – luckily. 










Train

We caught the 9.48am train on platform 2 for what was supposed to be a 4 hour 15 minutes journey, providing good time to draft a blog post, something I’d not had chance to focus on while sort the pictures. 




We were told that there was a technical problem on the train, which had been running slow, which led to an announcement that didn’t give much comfort:


We are trying to manually remedy the problem but it will cause a further delay 


Truth is that with good wifi and plenty of other things to catch up with, so we are not complaining.



We stop for a longer time in Ahlen (Westf). The driver tells us he has to become a mechanic. It turns out that the solution is to remove one of the carriages and then do further tests! As this would take some time the doors were opened and people could go out onto the platform to get fresh air – we stayed with the air we had and I typed while Drew read his Kindle. 


The train manager then announced 

please feel free to stay on the platform or in the train as we will announce on the platform when the train will begin again. But we have to do a complete restart i.e. They are going to turn it off and then turn it back on again. 

I feel a little like I’ve fallen into an episode of the IT Crowd, where this was a constant refrain.


Still, it worked, so again we can’t complain. 90 minutes later and with one less carriage than we originally had and subsequent moving for some people from that carriage into the others which were already full on this busy Monday trip. We got away. [Co-pilot's note: Which, dear readers was somewhat disappointing as it meant I couldn't continue to sing - we'll never leave Harlen alive]


Our first stop was Hannover, a city I’d previously taught in delivering MSc programmes in Marketing and Procurement to managers from Siemens. I remember a great night here when Octoberfest was on when Heather Skinner, God rest her Soul, and Kelly Page, now living in New York, and I were each teaching different groups of students at various levels of the course and were taken out to the beer festival.


We next went through Wolfsburg, an interesting city, built around the development of the VW Beetle – then called the KdF Wagen was initially called Stadt des KdF Wagens.




To be fair to Deutsche Bahn they came around with free coffee and water and also claim sheets so we can get a 25% refund as part of the Government policy on train delays of more than 1 hour. It is 50% for delays of more than 2 hours, but they managed to get us into Berlin Hauptbahnhof (HBF) i.e. Central Station with five minutes to spare. So, we arrived at 4.10pm rather than the 2.15pm we had expected.  


As I mentioned in an earlier blog post, we will use the BVG app to travel in Berlin. We used the trains wifi as we entered the station to buy our tickets online – a simple process making use of the Google Pay data already on our devices, so not needing to enter a credit card number etc! 


The app does a countdown before the ticket appears and then the ticket shows the time and how long it has to last. In this case 8 euro for 24 hours. 



As ever in a new city there was the problem that Google Maps is not great at knowing what direction you are travelling until you have walked a bit. Not a problem in many cases, but when this huge station with 20+ platforms has exits on each of the four sides, on can know where the buses are on the map, but until you know where you are it can be confusing. Given the crowds we choose an exit and ended up having to walk around a quarter of the station to get to the side we actually wanted. Though as the weather was fine this wasn’t a problem. A large screen shows bus stop numbers, so we looked for our bus – the M85 and found it was at Bus Stop 2 – trial and error, spotting 3 and 4 helped us find 2 and we had an uneventful bus ride to Lulu Guldsmeden Hotel in 12 minutes. The bus stop is immediately opposite the hotel, so we walked to the junction, waited for the
Green Man to come on at the crossing (more of him in a minute) went in and checked in.


Lulu Guldsmeden




Why, I hear you ask, would we choose to stay in a Danish brand hotel in Germany? Well, last October, Drew took part in a half-marathon in Copenhagen, when we began to book hotels all those near the start of the race had been booked – I had been tasked (some might say politely asked) to find a location which had good travel links to the start, so that Drew could get there on the day of the race. I looked at a variety of options and came upon one which was near both the subway and the main railway station. In an area of town which was safe and clean (even Copenhagen has some seedy places, though not as many as other cities. The hotel was called the Axel Guldsmeden and was quirky and enjoyable. So much so that I’d made a note of where they were (5 in Denmark), one in France, one in Iceland, one in Norway, one in Bali and one in Berlin. Hence when we planned the holiday, this was the first hotel we booked, to keep the connection with our previous stays. We were so lucky, not only was it well connected (on a bus route with two buses each which run every 12 minutes in the daytime and even every 30 minutes overnight but also a lovely relaxed environment inside – oh and free sweets!!





We checked in and using the material I’d typed earlier, managed to finish the Brussels blog post by 5.50pm and posted it. 


We began to look at where to go for dinner. It turns out that the area around the hotel have a selection of eating places, Dalmatian (the area not the dog), Filipino, a burger joint and a Vietnamese. We decided we would quite like a Vietnamese, so opted to go there.  


The restaurant was called Cay Tre Quan and had five tables in quite a compact, but friendly place.


We shared three starters together. Lalot chien - Minced meat wrapped in lalot leaves - The crispy leaves wrapped the warm beef very well and the chilli and vinegar sauce brought real Vietnam flavours to the mouth. A reminder to us that it is 17 years since we were in Vietnam, where did the time go!


Nem Chien - Fried spring rolls filled with Nem Chay Vegetables - these were like Chinese Spring Rolls the world over, lightly fried they had no excess fat and lots of lovely vegatables. 



Nem Cuon - Rice paper filled with rice noodles, salad, egg and coriander - Shrimps - As ever these were harder to eat as the rice paper falls apart at every touch, but the noodles and vegetables were delightful.


For mains Drew opted for Pho Xao mit hühnerfleisch - Fried rice noodles with vegetables, bean sprouts, peanuts and roasted onions with chicken. The noodles were soft and the chicken well cooked and generous in portion size. Very tasty. 
I also opted for Pho Xao, but mine was mit ente cross - Crispy duck. I think I got the best deal as the duck was a long breast cut into slices - crisp and delicious. The crispness balancing well with the soft gently flavour of the noodles.

Ampelmann

It was only 8:22pm when we had finished dinner, so we went for a walk and passed a memorial to one of the synagogues of the pre-war period, Synagogue Levetzowstrasse, which was destroyed during the Nazi regime – it was based in this part of the city for centuries.



We walked along the Landwehr Canal and came to the Geroge C. Marshall Bridge, that Marshall of Marshall Plan fame who did so much to restore Western Europe to economic well being after the second world war.



I mentioned earlier the little green (and red) men who allow you to cross the road, well here in Berlin these gentlemen have an additional air of sartorial elegance by wearing a hat. They are called Ampelmann, Drew was taken by their hat, hence the photos, and as you’ll see later this week, in a purchase he makes before we leave Berlin!




We return to Potsdamer Strasse, the street on which Lulu is based and get back to the hotel and to Bed by 9pm!


12 comments:

  1. Appreciate the hotel/station time check, definite progress there ! You having a few technicals on trains but there are worse places to be, and few better places to blog and people watch. Ah, the old new station exit lottery, a fundamental part of travelling, what a feeling of success when the occasional right one is hit !! Very much loving the links between old and current trips, a sense of continuity for sure. A few years since we were in Berlin, assuming wall, reichstagg all to come. Again am immediately taken back to hearty food and large schteins. That vietnamese option did look the business though, we have had mixed results with that cuisine abroad.

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    1. Hi Lloyd,

      Indeed, I've started the draft and if up early enough will be giving those details tomorrow.

      Yes 'Station Exit Lottary' is a fun game, happened again to us in arriving Warsaw! But didn't delay us much.

      We have been lucky with Vietnamese both in the UK and in Denmark, Portugal and the USA. (Wichita Kansas being a great memory of a Pho) not so common everywhere. So, luckily this one didn't disappoint.

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  2. At last I have found your link and followed you on X sounds like you're having s great time. I've always b wanted to go to Berlin, it's on my bucket list. Safe travels, I'll be following. .. Julie

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    1. Hi Julie,

      Imagine Facebook allowing that route, but no direct!!

      It is an amazing city, hard at times when reflecting on the hurt that was centred there in WW2 and then in the conflict of the Cold War - now at least plenty of strong evidence of people coming to terms, and doing their best to avoid, the mistakes of the past.

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  3. OK, not Harlan and not Germany, but by strange co-incidence, we were also stuck once in Herleen in the Netherlands: a two hour delay caused by a broken down DB train blocking the line ahead. People have the wrong idea about German trains, assuming everything runs on time. Not so, Deutche Bahn is one of the least reliable networks in Europe after decades of underfunding in infrastructure and rolling stock.

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    1. Hi Robin,

      yes, having experienced the amazing Italian trains 11 years ago, and finding the French and Spanish networks OK, not as good as Italy, but not bad. I see Deutche Bahn aren't as effective as other continental railway operators.

      We will be back with them for the Hamburg-Paris part of the journey, with a change, so let's hope we don't get delayed then.

      p.s. the joint German/Polish train ran perfectly to time yesterday, German crew to the border and Polish beyond, but clearly the engine and carriages were old Polish rolling stock, not as fast as the DB trains, but reliable.

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  4. I appreciated Co-Pilot's piece about his station-related singing. I do the same thing when travelling by train in the Netherlands: "You must take the 'A' train, if you want to go to Sugar Hill way up in Harlem".
    https://youtu.be/dQnNnPLC_b4. This usually causes raised eyebrows in the carriage.
    Too many Harlan homonyms today!

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    1. Yes, Harlan, Ahlan, Haarlam and Harlam do seem to be a bit much. Still a bit of music isn't a bad thing - though I avoided singing one song as I went through Bialystok this afternoon 😉

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  5. Found you and catching up!

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    1. Great to have you back with us Linda, you've been a regular on the blogs for many years, so I'm missed your insightful comments.

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  6. I would have had a serious breakdown if I was stuck in a box with an app refusing to work..hats off to the co-pilot. When my ticket did not swipe at the station when the person I was withs one did I flapped enough for the railway person to fly over and confirm it was valid and let me through! And that was not even a foreign country😂

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    1. Hi Linda,

      Strangely I'd be more panicked with a paper ticket than with a mobile one - you kind of expect mobile to be flaky now and again, but if the paper doesn't work it seems like trouble.

      A pdf just worked on the train we have just got on in Lithuania - we crossed the border 20 minutes ago and got wi-fi, yipee.

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