Showing posts with label Northern Europe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Northern Europe. Show all posts

Saturday, 5 August 2023

London to Brussels or Bruxelles or Brussel


In Wales we are used to seeing place names in two languages - but come to Brussels and suddenly you see it in three. Some places use the English (Brussels) others the French (Bruxelles) and yet others the Flemish (Brussel) - even the railway station has three names, the two on the sign:


and Brussels-South as it said on our ticket.


As someone who was never able to spell Brussels (always missing the second of the s's), it is a relief to find I could have pretended I was aiming for one of the alternatives!


Paddington to St. Pancras

Before I go any further with the challenges of language, time to go back to where we left off in the last blog post - the point where we had arrived at Paddington.  


From our platform on Paddington, and without any friendly Peruvian bears 😉, we were able to walk over the modern concourse that connects the railway station with the underground. Unlike the old days when you had to come back on yourself for the Hammersmith and City line and walk to the opposite end of the station for the Circle line, for the last five or six years it has been possible to catch both Circle and H&C trains from the same Underground platform, making the journey from Paddington to Kings Cross/St. Pancras easy with trains every few minutes. A circle line train was coming in as we got to the platform, so we jumped on board and were in St. Pancras by 10.10am.  


My years of having a father who was always last minute (or late, as I like to call it!) has led to me being the exact opposite. Yes, we had arrived at 10.10am for a check in that opened at 11.15am, but better that than the opposite!

I can't spend time in St. Pancras, as modern and impressive as it now looks, without being taken back to that great novel by Douglas Adams, The Long Dark Tea-Time of the Soul - in it Adams suggests that St. Pancras is "an area where terrible things happen to people, to buildings, to cars, to trains… You could have a cheap car radio fitted while you waited, and if you turned your back for a couple of minutes, it would be removed while you waited as well. Other things you could have removed while you waited were your wallet, your stomach lining, your mind and your will to live." Naturally, in Adams' mind, St. Pancras was the home of the uncared for Norse Gods - an idea Neil Gaimen builds on in an American context in his book (and tv series) American Gods.  


It is now much nicer than in Adams' day! We stopped in a Starbucks and had a coffee each 



while I loaded up pictures and Drew read, meaning we were ready to check-in when it opened at 11.15am.


Eurostar

We arrived at the entrance to the Eurostar terminal at 11.16am and went through tickets, case and person scanning (and neither of us set the beepers off this time) and both outbound UK and in bound EU passport control by 11.25am. 


It is very noticeable that the passport area and queues have the effect of reducing the seating space in the terminal - one of the costs of the idiocy that is Brexit!!


Boarding for the 1:01pm train to Brussels begins at 12.30. Our carriage is the second one at the top of the travelator. 



We booked Standard Premier to get the benefit of the light lunch and soft drinks they offer in this class. The seats are really comfortable and they even have a mirror!! I couldn't resist a mirrored shot of myself.



The train pulled away at exactly 1.01pm as scheduled. Let's hope the whole of the journey over the next three weeks is this easy!


At 1.36pm we head into the tunnel. It is of course now 2.36 as the clocks go forward the hour as we travel under the channel. 


At 2.40pm (which was 1.40pm a few minutes ago!) lunch is served. 


Drew opted for the Suffolk chicken, Caesar sauce, mangetout, carrot, cabbage and red onion remoulade with a bread roll and Strawberry yoghurt cake, water and a coke


I went with the Tomato, mozzarella, caramelised onion and pesto tart, pesto pasta salad with sundried tomato and spinach, bread roll and Strawberry yoghurt cake with sparking water - Drew swopped my cake for his bread roll as he is so kind to me. The meal was completed by a coffee. 


We had a slight delay in the channel tunnel, the train had to slow down but the impact was that we took 20 minutes more than usual to transit the tunnel coming out at 3.10pm. 



Coming out of the tunnel we crossed along Northern France stopping at Lille 



and from there into Belgium arriving in Brussels at 4.18pm - 14 minutes later than we were due. 


Brussels 

In many of the cities on this visit we are staying in an IHG (International Hotel Group) hotel. In this case the Holiday Inn Express Brussels - Grand-Place on the Rue Du Cypres.


We left Brussels Midi station and immediately realised that the Tram stop, we knew we needed to travel on to four stops to the hotel, wasn't outside the station as it appeared on the map, but accually underneath the station. Effectively for this part of its journey the Tram had become a subway train!




So we went back into the station and followed the T (for Tram) sign down two levels and caught the Tram to the De Brouckere station and we could see the Holiday Inn Express sign as we came out of the station.


We were welcomed and shown to our room in the eves at the top of the hotel (the room you can see with the arch at the top of the photo above. It was 4.50pm and we were able to settle in and have a brief rest before going out for the evening. It has been 12 hours since we got up, but the journey has gone so remarkably smoothly we can hardly believe it. 





The evening will be the topic of the next blog post.

Thursday, 3 August 2023

Planning the Holiday



Those of you who have travelled with us on our previous years' blogs (all the blogs are available at the links on the right for anyone who wants to relive the experience!! - at least they are on the desktop version, so if you are reading this on a mobile you may want to select the desktop option to access those links) will know that planning the holiday is as much part of the holiday as the journey itself.


I suspect this is the holiday which has been in the planning for the longest of all our trips. Back in 2019, when we returned from our wonderful trip to Alaska and Hawai'i, I began putting ideas together for the summer of 2020. That draft document, dated 8th September 2019, proposes a route like this:

  • London St Pancras to Amsterdam (Possible Change in Brussels)
  • Amsterdam to Hamburg (5h 36m with one change at Osnabrueck)
  • Hamburg to Copenhagen (4h 58m – Direct)
  • Copenhagen to Gothenburg (3h 38m – Direct)
  • Gothenburg to Oslo – (3h 52m – Direct)
  • Oslo to Bergan – (6h 32m – Direct)
  • Bergan to Olden – (5h 55m by Bus – Direct)
  • Olden to Trondheim (7h 34m 3:34 by Bus to Otta then 3hr train to Trondheim – Overnight) 
  • Trondheim to Stockholm (11h 15m by Train, change at Storlien)
  • Stockholm to Helsinki – Ferry (10 hr 30 min – Ferry then Train)
  • Helsinki to Tallinn – Ferry (2 hr 30 min)
  • Tallinn to Riga – Train or bus (4h 25m by Bus)
  • Riga to Vilnius – Train (4h by Bus)
  • Vilnius to Warsaw – Train (via Minsk - 2h 30m from Vilnius to Minsk; 9h 12m Minsk to Warsaw)
  • Warsaw to Berlin – Train (6h 36m – Direct)
  • Berlin to Brussels – Train (7h 20m – via Cologne)
  • Amsterdam to London – Eurostar (2h 1m – via Brussels)

You'll see I'd even looked at travel times back then! 


As it was, all the booking I'd done by the time Covid-19 came along was booking accommodation in Olden, so it wasn't hard to cancel the plans before we got to August 2020 when travel outside the UK wasn't possible. 


Of course, in the years since 2019, things have changed. The idea of travelling anywhere via Minsk, the capital of Belarus, at present isn't practical with the war in Ukraine. A re-routing from Warsaw to Vilnius is now one of the fun parts of this trip, as the two countries have different gage railways!


Then, with Drew taking on the six Super Halfs challenge we ended up travelling to Denmark in 2022 as you can read in this blog, so didn't need to build in time for Copenhagen. 


[On an unrelated point (these blogs often have crazy unrelated wanders into my psyche) I find typing Super Halfs really hard I want to use halves which the Grammarist says is correct. But just as Dwarfs (common English) and Dwarves (Tolkien English) are both potential plurals for Dwarf, those who promote the Super Halfs use this form!]  


So, we refocussed the journey this year from its initial Scandinavian focus, reversed the route and then looked at the amount of time we'd like to spend in each city. Our spreadsheet got tweaked early this year from the initial, over ambitious, route to our current plans. It also means we have a challenge to visit various places in Scandanavia in more depth. Inspired by the travels of my friend Lloyd and his wife, Chrissi, for their 20th wedding anniversary - well recounted in their blog - in April this year, we will save the trip to northern Scandanavia to another year and get up to the wildest north then, not just the Southern parts of Sweden and Denmark we will pass through this year.


Tomorrow we will be beginning our journey, I look forward to you joining us as we make our progress across the Northern nations of Europe. 

Wednesday, 2 August 2023

Blogging our way through Northern Europe

 

Eleven years ago, I began my blog post on the first day of our trip to Southern Europe with words sung by Bilbo Baggins in The Lord of the Rings:

The Road goes ever on and on 
Down from the door where it began.
Now far ahead the Road has gone,
And I must follow...

 The Fellowship of the Ring, Book I, Chapter 1

It seems fitting to begin this blog, when we will travel through parts of Europe new to us, with words from a similar source - Frodo, Sam, Pippin and Merry as they leave the Shire: 

Still round the corner there may wait
A new road or a secret gate,
And though we pass them by today,
Tomorrow we may come this way

 The Fellowship of the Ring, Book I, Chapter 3

Now, after three years when we spent our summers in the UK it feels like the right time to expand our horizons again. 

I'm reminded of the words of one of my favourite authors, James Baldwin, who said:

I met a lot of people in Europe. I even encountered myself.

So, I'm looking forward to a journey of discovery and encounter as the trip goes on.


Our Route

Our planned route looks something like this:


Google Maps will only allow ten separate locations, hence there being 2 As, Bs, Cs, Ds and Es (location J is then covered by the second A!), but I hope the route is clear.

For those who prefer words to pictures the plan (subject to all the transport links and connections going fine!!) is like this:

A Trip Around Northern Europe

Day From To
Friday August 4th Taffs Well Brussels
Sunday, August 6th Brussels Cologne
Monday, August 7th Cologne Berlin
Thursday, August 10th Berlin Warsaw
Saturday, August 12th Warsaw Vilnius
Monday, August 14th Vilnius Riga
Wednesday, August 16th Riga Tallinn
Thursday, August 17th Tallinn Helsinki
Saturday, August 20th Helsinki Stockholm
Tuesday, August 22nd Stockholm Hamburg
Thursday, August 24th Hamburg Paris
Saturday, August 26th Paris Taffs Well

Summary

Overall, it will be 23 days, 10 countries, 13 trains, 2 buses and 2 ferries, I hope this will be a good balance between the places we get to see and enjoy and the travel which is itself so much part of a holiday like this.  

Tomorrow I'll post about the plans which led to this year's holiday. I look forward to seeing you all again then. If you get a chance please leave a comment below, it is nice to know who is along with us.

A gentle request: If you use the anonymous feature to comment please add your name to the message, it will automatically appear if you are logged in to a Google account. In last year's blog I spent over a week replying to someone who was in-fact a completely different person. Thankfully I found out before the end!